2003 Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques

(these vines are 80 years old, according to Raphet) Good full ruby-red. Lovely rose and violet floral perfume lifts the aromas of blackberry, brown spices and mocha. Sweet to the point of confectionery but not hugely creamy in texture; the wine's liqueur-like fruit shows a briary quality. Finishes with building tannins and a slight edge of acidity. This big boy needs time but has all the elements to make a superb bottle.