2014 Uhlen Laubach GG

The so-called Laubach geological formation injects rare calcareous rock into the Mosel, and confirmed terroirists may treat this wine’s at once aloof and animating character as a testimony to soil influence. Ash, quarry dust, peach kernel and musky watermelon radish combine for a pungent, nose-pricking aromatic display that leads one to anticipate an austere palate. And that’s what you get, with a firm feel, bitterness of peach kernel, piquancy of grapefruit rind and bite of radish ushering in a long finish that leaves the tongue tingling. This is formidable and probably also long-lived stuff, but will it ever become fun to drink? Incidentally, the presentation label here still displays only a prominent capital letter “L,” while the fine print does not indicate “Laubach” per se – since, as a vineyard name, that’s not technically allowed (yet) – but instead reads “Terroir Laubach.”