2015 Estate Viognier

There are only 100 cases of the 2015 Viognier Estate, and it's brought up all in neutral barrel. Made in a much firmer, more mineral-driven, and fresh style than the Central Coast release, it offers lots of citrus, lemon peel, tangerine and floral notes, with a gorgeous salinity on the finish. Rich, full-bodied, balanced and pure, it's a killer Viognier and up with the crème de la crème of the variety in the New World. If I had to come up with a list of the greatest wine estates in the world, Alban Vineyards would certainly be in there. Readers need to understand that this estate is an anomaly, lying at the very end of the Edna Valley, and the only estate in 50+ miles making wines of this quality. Vintages here marginally track the larger Central Coast theme, yet not always. These are singular wines. John commented that he thinks 2015 is a step down over 2012, 2013 and 2014, but that it’s better than 2011. I only tasted his whites, but like everyone else in 2015, his yields were decimated, so there’s very little of these to go around. I report on the red from barrel next year. His 2014s are all terrific as well, with full-bodied, ripe, classic Alban Style. Where this estate doesn’t track with the rest of the Central Coast is with his 2013s and 2012s; in general, the 2012s are the sexier, more open-knit, and the 2013s more concentrated and structure. In John’s case, the vintages are reversed, with the 2012s showing more structure and the 2013s just packed with sweet fruit. As I’ve written in the past, for the life of me, I can’t understand why no one else in the Edna Valley tries to make wine anywhere close to this level of quality.

Also scheduled to be bottled soon, the 2015 Viognier Estate is up with the finest example of this variety coming from the States. Loaded with notions of ripe peach, tangerine, white flowers and toasted spice, it's rich, medium-bodied and crystalline on the palate, with fabulous purity and focus. It will certainly be as good as the 2014 and should drink nicely for 4-5 years.

Light bright yellow. Intense, mineral-tinged tangerine, peach and honey aromas show excellent focus and pick up a gingery element with aeration. Sappy, nervy and precise, offering concentrated orange zest, pear skin and peach nectar flavors that smoothly combine richness and vivacity. Shows a sexy floral quality on the finish, which hangs on with outstanding tenacity. I'd have no problem putting this wine up against some of Condrieu's most esteemed bottlings.