2010 Chablis Valmur

Moreau’s 2010 Chablis Valmur shows the pedigree of this great site in its deceptively medium-bodied, at times weightless, personality. There is plenty of depth in the glass, but it needs time to emerge. Still, I very much like the energy and delineation, both of which elevate the Valmur to a significant degree. Orange blossom, nectarine and flowers leave a lasting impression. The richness that is typical of Valmur is nicely buffered by underlying veins of minerality. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. There are a handful of famous producers in Chablis, and a larger number of emerging estates, but the few wineries are as overlooked as Christian Moreau. This is one of the few domaines where I preferred the 2011s to the 2010s. The 2011s have notable freshness and energy, while the 2010s are at times a bit on the heavy side. Perhaps it is a question of harvest dates or the conversion to biodynamic farming that was in its second year in 2011, or a combination of other factors, but it is pretty clear the 2011s have the upper hand when tasted next to the 2010s. The 2011 harvest started on September 2, a good two weeks earlier than 2010. Some of the wines were chaptalized by half a percent. Total acidities were in the 4.5-5% range, which Moreau reports as being similar to 2010. The 2011 Chablis was bottled the first week of June. I tasted the rest of the 2011s from tank or barrel. The 2010s were harvested beginning on September 16th. These are decidedly rich, large-scaled wines endowed with considerable concentration. Yields were down 30-50% because of hail and poor flowering, and that has marked the wines to a significant degree. Overall, I have a slight preference for the 2011s, which are less bombastic than the 2010s. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Bright pale yellow. Subdued but precise aromas of fresh apricot and peach, acacia flower and flint. Rich and supple but subtle and quite dry, with the fresh peach flavor carrying through in the mouth. Not quite as detailed as the Vaudesir but the subtle, slowly rising finish boasts excellent breadth and persistence. Fabien Moreau notes that this grand cru used to be more massive here but has been getting tighter and fresher in recent years--a change that he attributes to his family's biodynamic practices.

Refined, restrained and still fragrant. Powerful up front then long on the finish, and there's good depth in the middle. (JH)