2004 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Spatlese

The 2004 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Spatlese feinherb keeps us in the domain of red currants, coffee, and lime, with caraway, bittersweet herbs, and gooseberry shading the aromas and flavors in a Sauvignon-like direction. The residual sugar supplies excellent support and balance without getting in the way. In fact, if you want to try Karthauserhof Riesling as an alternative to a Pouilly-Fume (a course I highly recommend for educating and pleasing one’s palate) it is to this “feinherb” version rather than the “trocken” that I would turn. There is a lovely glyceral character and cling, and the faint berry skin tartness and citrus zest bitterness are nicely integrated into the low toasted nuts, caraway and coffee tones. A few years in the cellar will emphasize the depth inherent, and even 15 or 20 years of aging will not bring this wine to ground. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463.