2010 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese

The scents that rise from a glass of Prum 2010 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese long gold capsule make my nose hairs stand to attention, and pretty soon the rest of me is tempted to follow suit. Aromatically almost ominous in its penetrating suggestions of apple jack, pear distillate, quince preserves, lemon rind, and smoky black tea, this comes onto the palate like a cymbal crash of fruit concentrates, and finishes with Eiswein-like high-voltage incandescence. If there is less apparent depth here today than in a few of its siblings, that may be because it is obscured by the sheer rawness of its blazing intensity, especially in an as yet unbottled state. There are certainly many decades as well as much commanding of attention ahead of it. Katharina Prum says she and her father performed some de-acidification on their eventual generic Kabinett bottling as wine, but otherwise employed only sparingly light double-salt must de-acidification, insisting that late harvesting was the essential measure to be taken this year against high acidity. (And, as usual, most of the wines were bottled in high summer, relatively late when compared with those of nearly all their Middle Mosel neighbors.) It’s not so much that measurable acidity dropped significantly in the second half of October, opined Prum, but that the character of the acidity changed in immeasurable ways. Other than the aforementioned generic bottling, concentration was deemed simply too high this year for any of an already small crop to be rendered as Kabinett. And indeed, only the two most prominent sites were captured in Spatlese format; all else is Auslese and above. Prum notes that levels of residual sugar are seldom significantly higher this year than in other recent vintages, with the result that the wines generally tend to taste a bit drier. “Above and beyond” (as it were) those wines I report on (or whose existence I at least mention) below, there is material from Wehlener Sonnenuhr expected to inform long gold capsule Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese and be released in future years. (Veteran readers of my reports will know by now that while there are often multiple eponymous Prum bottlings, the family is loathe to disclose the A.P. #s of wines they serve in tastings, numbers that might be required to disambiguate between lots which they insist that there will only ever be very slight difference. In 2010, the crop is was so small that there are few alternate bottlings.) Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. 918 622 0424 and Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA tel. 800 596 9463