1997 Chardonnay Durell Vineyards

Readers looking for a Chardonnay that possesses the tropical fruit spectrum, without completely abandoning the complex mineral character, will be pleased with the 1997 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard. The poor vigor of these rocky soils, combined with such clones as Hyde, has resulted in a wine with zesty acidity, medium to full body, outstanding ripeness and purity, and loads of orange blossom/lemony fruit in addition to hints of peach and pineapple. This wine requires 1-2 years of cellaring, and should have an unusually long life of 8-10 years. Steve Kistler believes the 1997 Chardonnays are among the finest he has ever produced. The vintage's high yields do not appear to have had an impact on the wines' level of concentration and intensity. Moreover, the 1997's possess an atypical level of tangy, underlying acidity, giving the wines a wonderful vibrancy. The splendid aromatics are matched only by the 1995's. I tasted 8 Chardonnays. While they share a certain similarity, they posssess distinctive attributes that justify the winery's decision to differentiate them. All are fermented with both indigenous and commercial yeasts, given extensive stirring during prolonged contact with the lees, and bottled unfiltered after full malolactic fermentation. The percentage of new French oak varies, with higher percentages for the Camp Meeting Ridge, Hudson, and Cuvee Cathleen offerings. Release date, 11/99. Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709.