2023 Fort Ross Seaview Chardonnay

Planted in 1981 by the Martinelli family, the 2023 Chardonnay Charles Ranch is from a rocky site in Fort Ross-Seaview close to the coast. It’s made from all Wente clone and gets thicker skins, which contributes to its richness of texture. The nose is expressive and inviting, leading with notes of green apple candies. Full-bodied, it’s long and has compact intensity throughout, with an electric spine of acidity, and it’s fully dry but has glycerin richness and a long finish. Drink 2026-2038. Carlo and Dante Mondavi founded RAEN in the West Sonoma Coast AVA with the goal of finding California Grand Cru-equivalent sites in the Freestone-Occidental area. Melanie McIntyre is leading the way as winemaker of this Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-focused estate, located two miles from the ocean. In the vineyard, they practice no-till farming and work beyond the requirements of organics, working toward eliminating the use of all chemicals in the vineyards.

The 2023 Chardonnay Charles Ranch is stellar. Creamy and resonant, with terrific persistence, the 2023 dazzles from start to finish. White pepper, slate, chalk, mint and crushed rocks soar from the glass. Brisk acids pull it all together on the long, persistent finish. My personal preference is for a bit more mid-palate richness, but this is a bit lean because of the cold, late-ripening season.