2011 Cabernet Sauvignon St Helena

(14.5% alcohol; production was off about 50% from a normal year): Bright, full, moderately saturated red. Delicate aromas of red cherry, lead pencil, dried flowers, underbrush, menthol and pepper reminded me of a St. Emilion. Supple, clean and aromatic in the mouth, offering good but not outstanding depth to the cherry, pepper and mint flavors, with some sweet oak and chocolate notes contributing early sex appeal. Finishes with light, slightly dry tannins and noteworthy persistence.

(the crop was down 60% from normal owing to the poor flowering and to strict selection; includes a higher-than-usual percentage of merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot): Bright, fresh red. Lively, claret-like aromas of redcurrant, spices, underbrush and caraway seed, plus a pungent herbal component. On the palate, redcurrant, cherry, spice and eucalyptus flavors are on the light side but nicely sweet, with an element of medicinal herbs adding complexity. Finishes ripe but classically dry, with a fine-grained dusting of tannins and attractive lingering perfume. Very Bordeaux in style

The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon is all about grace. One of the most floral, perfumed wines of the vintage, the 2011 impresses for its balance and sense of proportion. There are no hard edges or green notes in the 2011, even though the wine is smaller scaled than normal. Today, the 2011 is quite open and accessible, but I would not be surprised to see it tighten up in bottle. The bright acidity of the year lingers on the finish. Ric Forman shortened macerations by 50% and opted for gentle extractions. The 2011 also saw a little less new oak than normal.