2008 Mon Chevalier Cabernet Sauvignon

Composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and tiny amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec from the Morley estate vineyard, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier may be the finest wine I have ever tasted from Knight’s Valley. Aromas of white chocolate, spring flowers, licorice, charcoal and black currants make for a provocative as well as intense aromatic display. With a voluptuous texture, tremendous opulence, sensational purity and depth, this 2008 is slightly more evolved than the two Oakville offerings. Brilliant winemaking and meticulous attention to detail in the vineyard and winery have resulted in a prodigious effort. Drink it over the next 15-20 years. One of northern California’s most talented wine producers is Frenchman Luc Morlet, who is also a consultant at Peter Michael Winery where his brother is firmly in charge. All of his Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from the Sonoma Coast and Russian River as well as his Syrahs from Bennett Valley will be reviewed in the February, 2011 issue. His extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignon portfolio include two offerings from Oakville (which emerge from the Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard) and one from Knight’s Valley. The stunning 2008s are as good if not better than the Morlet 2007s. The 2009s appear to be among the most promising wines of the vintage which will be much more irregular than the 2007s or even the 2008s in Napa. Tel. (707) 967-8690

Good medium ruby. Reticent aromas of cassis and licorice. Fat, dense and creamy-sweet, with a wild quality to the blackberry and licorice flavors. This, too, shows big, building tannins but here they come across as a bit gentler. Doesn't show the flavor intensity of the 2007 yet, but this is still youthfully unevolved.

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier is an attractive wine, but it is also a touch slender. Even so, it has aged well. I would not push my luck on aging though. Dark-toned fruit, leather and tobacco show the patina of age. The aromatics are quite pretty, but this feels a bit disjointed relative to other years, all of which give the impression of a wine that is best enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. This was a challenging year marked by smoke in some parts of northern California. Ultimately, this fruit may have been picked on the early side and/or been given less time on the skins. It is clearly a stylistic outlier in this vertical.