2011 Walker Vine Hill Syrah
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Tasting notes
30% new oak. Fibrous, grainy texture. Blackcurrant fruit with lovely perfume and richness. (RH)
Critic scores
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Robert Parker
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
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Donelan's 2011 Syrah Walker Vine Hill is quite a bit deeper and more dramatic than the Cuvée Christine. Here the flavors are dark, rich and enveloping, with hints of blue/blackish fruit, smoke, cloves and licorice that open up in the glass. Layers of intensely spiced black fruits saturate the palate on a finish laced with sweet floral notes from the 50% whole clusters that add a measure of lift. The 2011 spent 22 months in barrel, 35% new. Donelan bottled just 250 cases of this juice as opposed to around 850, which is customary.
A Syrah that Joe Donelan made famous when he was utlizing Pax Mahle as winemaker is the 2011 Syrah Walker Vine Hill. It shows more compactness and is shorter than it is in top vintages, but it possesses a dark ruby/purple color as well as crisp underlying acidity, and notes of blueberries, black currants, lavender, underbrush and a touch of pepper. This medium-bodied Syrah finishes somewhat narrowly, but it should provide enjoyable drinking over the next 3-4 years. This is one of the most impressive Rhone Ranger winemaking estates in California. They have also expanded their portfolio to make small quantities of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. For me, the real glories of Donelan Family Wines are their Syrahs. As the tasting notes suggest, 2011 turned out well here despite the challenges. However, if you can still track down a bottle or two of the 2009s and 2010s, you are in for something very special. Joe Donelan believes their finest wine, representing the best vineyard parcels and top barrel selections is the Cuvee Keltie, which normally comes from specific sub-sections of such vineyard sources as Obsidian, Richard’s Family, Steiner Ranch and Walker Vine Hill. Kudos to Donelan Family Wines! Tel. (707) 591-0782