2017 Obsidian Vineyard Syrah

Medium ruby-purple, the 2017 Syrah Obsidian Vineyard explodes on the nose with licorice, chargrill, warm blackcurrants, coffee beans and smoked meats, gaining more nuance with time in the glass. The palate is firm and packs a punch with its powerful, savory fruits, a touch of chew and bright freshness, finishing long and lifted. It's going out with a bang—fruit was harvested for the 2017 vintage just before the Obsidian vineyard was destroyed by wildfires, and the vines will have to be replanted. The generational-minded Donelan family are planning to replant at a higher density, with five selections of Syrah propagated from only 12 virus-free buds, although Joe Donelan noted with a sigh, "You can't buy vine age."

The 2017 Syrah Obsidian Vineyard is going to need a few years in bottle to soften, as the tannins are pretty imposing today. Black fruit, gravel, spice, leather and espresso give this potent, virile Syrah tons of flavor complexity. The Obsidian is one of the most forbidding wines in the range today, but it clearly has a lot to offer. Sadly, the vineyard burned about two weeks after harvest, so it will be at least a few years before the wine is back in production.

This is the last vintage from this vineyard until the new plantings come online, as the site was lost to the devastating fires in 2017. The 2017 Syrah Obsidian saw 24% whole clusters and is still aging in 54% new French oak. Unfortunately, there are only six barrels. It has a captivating bouquet of smoked meats, iron, crushed violets, and exotic, peppery blue fruits. This beauty is full-bodied and powerful, yet also elegant and flawlessly balanced. It’s a stunning example of Sonoma County Syrah.