1971 Barolo

1971 Cantina (Bartolo) Mascarello Barolo—Medium faded red. The 1971 shows advanced aromas of tobacco and leather along with a persistent note of barnyard that does not blow off. It is a soft spoken, hushed wine without much fruit, but with a lovely open and delicate texture on the palate. Predictably this was more evolved than when last tasted from 1.9 liter magnum (see Piedmont Report Issue 1) and did not improve once opened. It appears to be a wine to drink sooner rather than later. Perhaps overly seduced by the romantic notions of ‘terroir' and ‘tradition' I used to think that it was acceptable for wines like this to have dirty aromas and flavors. I now believe that these qualities are serious defects that mar what could have been - and should have been - unforgettably great Barolos. While the 1971 is not a wine for the uninitiated, it will appeal to those who enjoy this producer's unique expression of Barolo, with both its prized qualities and flaws on display. Personally I wish this wine was cleaner, especially on the nose. I place Mascarello's 1971 behind the great 1978, 1982, and 1985 vintages.

The bottle, which I purchased at the estate recently, is remarkable itself. At Mascarello the 1.9 liter format was used prior to 1980. The bottle is covered by a layer of dust. There is no label per se, just the numbers “71” written on the bottle in chalk. An index card with the estate's information is tied and secured to the bottle with a wax seal. The cork is also covered with wax. Following Mascarello's suggestion, the wine was stored upright for several weeks prior to opening. The wine was decanted immediately prior to serving. Needless to say it was a real treat to drink a perfectly stored example of a great wine from a great vintage. Medium ruby color with slight orangeish tones at the rim. The wine is somewhat cloudy. At first it shows overpowering aromas of barnyard. Fortunately that blows off with air and the wine opens nicely, with plenty of mature flavors of dried fruits, balsam, animal, leather and cedar. The finish is very long and persistent and the wine is exquisite with food. Tasted the next day the wine was more even complex and expansive on the palate. This Barolo has definitely reached maturity although it seems to have enough structure to keep for a few more years. The wines of Bartolo Mascarello represent the bastion of traditional winemaking in Barolo. (from 1.9 liter bottiglione)

The 1971 Barolo is a real thrill to taste and drink. Let me emphasize that second point. So often, wines like this are tasted among many other wines. On this night the two of us savor every last drop of the 1971. I have had very mixed results with the 1971, to the point I stopped seeking it out. In the 1970s (and later) Barolo was bottled only when it was sold, so it is very likely, if not probable, that the 1971 was bottled botte by botte over a period of years, which naturally leads to a certain amount of bottle variation. On this night, the 1971 is positively stellar. Deep, complex and potent, the 1971 captures all the richness of the year in its multi-faceted personality. More importantly, this bottle does not have any of the barnyard aromas and flavors that are unfortunately common in the Mascarello 1971. Simply put, this is what Barolo from the 1970s is all about. Readers who own pristine bottles can look forward to another two decades of exceptional drinking if storage is perfect.