2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Bright medium ruby. Black fruits, dark chocolate, leather and earth on the slightly stunted but pure nose. Large-scaled and impressively concentrated, offering briary mountain berry flavors complicated by an exotic element of dark chocolate liqueur and nicely lifted by underlying minerality. This seriously deep, youthfully inky wine finishes with powerful building tannins and outstanding length. Even better than I suggested a year ago. "The tannins are strong, so this wine should be good in ten years," said Philip Togni, who feels that his 2005 is more approachable today. Incidentally, the Tognis have had their own bottling equipment from the very beginning-a rarity for a winery that releases just 2,000 cases in a good year.

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate remains one of the finest bargains for long-lived California Cabernet Sauvignon. A dense purple color is followed by stunning aromatics of creosote, black olives, blackberries, cedar, and cassis. Full-bodied with a multi-layered texture, decent acidity, and substantial, but ripe, noble tannins, this excellent effort will benefit from 5-6 years of bottle age, and will be another 30+ year wine. This is an irrefutable source of remarkable Cabernet Sauvignons that last 20-30+ years! Philip Togni is a no-nonsense, tough-minded guy who is working alongside his daughter, so the succession at this winery is guaranteed should he ever decide to retire. Tel. (707) 963-3731; Fax (707) 963-9186

Good full medium ruby. Classic aromas of blackcurrant, tar and licorice, with a suggestion of liqueur-like ripeness. Round, spicy and firmly built, with a claret-like quality and lovely ripe acidity to the flavors of black fruits, minerals and spices. This came across as more powerful but a bit less fruity and lush than an early sample of the 2007, which Togni believes may ultimately be a slightly better wine. Finishes with big, broad, dusty tannins and a distinctly firm edge.