2023 Condrieu

Leading off the Condrieu, the 2023 Condrieu spent 10 months in a mix of barrels and tanks, with harvest starting on September 4. It's medium gold-hued with a gorgeous perfume of honeyed peach, marmalade, flowers, and quince. Medium to full-bodied, it has a pure, elegant mouthfeel, a remarkable sense of freshness, and a great finish. It will keep for 8-10 years, although I would drink bottles over the coming 5-7 or so, as I love the fruit in this cuvée. Drink 2025-2035. Unquestionably, some of my favorite Condrieu and Saint Joseph continues to come from this tiny estate located just off route N7, south of Condrieu. The lineup includes three Condrieu cuvées, all made from Viognier planted on steep, granite-rich slopes. The base cuvée is always worth a case purchase, while Chéry and Clos Chanson come from older vines and bring more richness and complexity. The flagship Chéry comes from 50-year-old vines and is aged in a mix of stainless steel and oak, with 10-20% new wood. And while the Condrieu get most of the attention (and deservedly so), the Saint Joseph Blanc is terrific as well. As to the reds, the classic Saint Joseph comes from northern sites in the appellation, is destemmed, and aged in roughly 20% new 400-liter barrels. In top vintages, they also make a Les Grisières bottling from old vines, with a slightly longer élevage in 30% new oak. These are serious, age-worthy reds that can easily pass for Côte Rôtie in blind tastings. While André remains actively involved, he's now joined by his daughter Marie, who returned to the domaine in 2019 after working in California and Chile. As I've written many times, Rhône lovers need to have these wines in their cellars. For years, I would finish every Northern Rhône trip with lunch at Le Dôme in Paris and a bottle of Perret's Condrieu on the table.