2018 Zellertal Kreuzberg Auktion
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Tasting notes
The 2018 Riesling Zeller Kreuzberg opens with a lifted note of dried white currant, lemon peel and sunny top notes of candied lemon. Just a hint of hazelnut follows. Fruit and incipient nutmeg spice are anchored in limestone, a consummation of sunlight and cool stone. Unctuous future oiliness is almost programmed, resonating with citrus elements. Lemon peel and pith shine, grapefruit spice lends a tingle to the long finish. Available at auction: 30 magnums, 3 double magnums. (Bone-dry)
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
For the story behind this vineyard and Spanier’s restoration of it, consult my review of the inaugural vintage 2017 bottling. Of numerous vintage 2018 Battenfeld-Spanier bottlings to display significant reduction, this is the one in which that is most pronounced. The upshot is a sense of animation and positive tension, but linked to a slightly less forthcoming array of scents and flavors than exhibited at this youthful stage by its stablemates. Crab apple and lime project a pungent aromatic and tangy palate impression, accompanied by smoky and saline notes. The long, lively finish leaves my tongue tingling and my salivary glands pumping. You’d never guess from tasting this wine that 2018 is a vintage in which there is a danger of too little acidity!
The 2018 Zellertal Kreuzberg Riesling is clear, intense yet discreet on the nose, with ripe and concentrated fruit and delicate sur lie aromas. Very intense and concentrated on the palate, this is a powerful and rich but fine and very mineral Kreuzberg with fine tannins and lots of extract. However, it's not quite as thrilling as the 2017. Tasted at the domaine in March 2020.