2009 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli pays great homage to the aromatic nuances inherent to Sangiovese: pressed rose and violet, berry fruit and warm earth all capped by bright balsam notes that recall eucalyptus, hummus, rosemary oil and root beer. There’s a smooth note of polished river stone as well. The wine shows a steady evolution in the glass, revealing more of itself slowly and carefully. Although the palate is not as fleshed out especially when compared to more structured vintages like 2007 and 2004, this edition does an impressive job of prioritizing harmony especially in terms of the balanced acidity. This is not a Montosoli of legends, but it is a very good effort. Drink: 2017-2028. From Bien Nacido in California’s Santa Barbara to Cannubi in Italy’s Barolo region, there are those unforgettable vineyards – sites of profound beauty and magic – that leave an incontrovertible imprint on your mind. Each time you taste a wine from that site, the memory of that beauty is evoked in a sudden mental mirage. Montalcino’s Montosoli is one of those places. This little mound of a hill sits at the foot of the Montalcino promontory like its own little island strewn haphazardly, and somewhat provokingly, in front of the whole town to admire. It seemingly mocks Montalcino with its unique sense of self. Montosoli has good reason to be smug. Of the many single-vineyard expressions in the appellation, this is one of the most distinct and profound with delicate floral and mineral nuances that are elegantly interwoven within a thicker textural consistency. Many estates source fruit from the Montosoli hill, but only Altesino has registered the name. In fact, their wine “Montosoli” born from a five-hectare plot located at 350 to 400 meters above sea level with marl and limestone soils, was one of the first single-vineyard bottlings of Brunello. It was created in 1975. Now, 40 years later, Montosoli is one of the biggest reasons why greater single-vineyard mapping efforts must become a top priority. Importer: Winebow Inc., www.winebow.com

Mid ruby with brickstone rim. Leafy cherry and hints of oak and undergrowth. Supple rich fruit with a muscular tannic finish that demands ageing. (WS)