2016 Kupfergrube GG (19 23)

A mad, smoky and radically herbal nose makes this something you will either sign up for or reject out of hand. That doesn\'t matter though, because after another year or two of ageing it will become much clearer that this is one of the most beautiful dry rieslings of the vintage from the Nahe. Drink or hold.

Site-typical cassis and huckleberry piquantly reinforced by hickory and walnut are joined on the nose by a remarkable evocation of mussel stock, with all of the mineral, animal and fennel-like herbal associations that description implies. There are hints of citrus on the nose as well, but nothing to prepare one for the riot of lime, grapefruit and orange that emerges on the palate to mingle with the complex aforementioned array of nutty, dark berry, herbal and mollusk-like saline-animal flavors. Despite the prominence of citrus, the acidity here is not at all sharp and the overall fruit impression is succulent and luscious. The feel is polished but with an underlying firmness that conveys a reassuring sense of structure. The superbly sustained finish is strikingly transparent to tingling and smoky mineral nuances. Quite a tour de force!

Intense nose with strong mineral elements. Softer acidity than the Dr Crusius version. Lots to chew on. Obviously more development to come. Masses buried in there. Worth decanting at this stage? Impressively long. (JR)