2021 Julius Riesling

More concentrated and taut than the Peggy's Hill bottling, Henschke's 2021 Julius Riesling is almost unfruity at first whiff, with scents limited to hints of crushed stone and chalk dust. Those slowly yield to notes of mixed citrus, including grapefruit, lemon and lime. It's medium-bodied on the palate and tightly focused, built around a narrow beam of acidity that drives through the long, lively finish. It can be enjoyed now—preferably with some fresh-shucked Coffin Bay oysters—or cellared up to a decade (and probably longer).