2020 Barolo Cascina Nuova
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Tasting notes
The medium red 2020 Barolo Cascina Nuova is spiced and fruity with notes of ripe grenadine, pink peppercorn, dried apricots, and polished leather. Open and approachable, it offers ripe, supple tannins, even acidity, and a clean finish with good length. It’s a very charming wine with a wide drinking window for enjoyment over the next 10 years. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous estate in 1991, after working for 30 years in partnership with Marcarini with the labels of Cogno-Marcarini. Originally from Novello, he had an opportunity to purchase the winery farmhouse, Cascina Nuova, located in the commune of Novello, in the heart of the Ravera Cru (MGA). That same year, he put Ravera on the map by producing the first-ever bottling of Barolo labeled as Ravera. They currently operate and own 16 hectares of vines, 11 of which are within the Cru of Ravera, and the remaining 5 hectares are parcels around the Novello Comune. Today the estate is run by Elvio’s son-in-law, Valter Fissore, and his daughter Nadia, who took over in 1996. In the vineyards, they continue to push forward, working to improve vineyard health and implement organic farming practices while adapting to the region's changing climate conditions. The total annual production is approximately 120,000 bottles. Their key holdings include the pre-phylloxera Barbera sourced from Berri on the western edge of La Morra, from 130-year-old vines. They survive because of the sandier soils and the cooler microclimate, which sees more wind coming off the river to the west. Less than 2000 bottles are produced each year. The Barolo from Bricco Pernice is a warmer microclimate within Ravera, as it is sheltered from the winds coming off the mountains, with soils that are a higher proportion of limestone compared to the other plots within Ravera. Bricco Pernice is entirely composed of the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Also within Ravera, Elvio planted Vigna Elena in 1991, the same year Valter and Nadia’s daughter Elena was born. It is a triangle-shaped parcel, uniquely planted exclusively to the Rose clone of Nebbiolo, whereas the rest of their Nebbiolo vines are composed of Michet and Lampia clones. In 2005, they had the opportunity to work with Bordini in Neive to begin producing their Barbaresco.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The Elvio Cogno 2020 Barolo Cascina Nuova has a hint of smoke and barrel with lots of red fruits, currants and cherries. There is an earthy element that ties in nicely with the oak, and there is a tart or crunchy side to the fruit that concludes with grippy tannins. It ages in large oak casks for 24 months. This is an ample release of 20,000 bottles.
Extremely perfumed with strawberry and forest floor with some sandalwood, roses and candied watermelon. Itâs medium-bodied with ultra-fine tannins that are bold and solid. Very persistent finish. Chewy at the end. Classic Barolo character. Drink after 2029.
The 2020 Barolo Cascina Nuova is lacking in color and freshness. Sweet dried cherry, mint, white pepper, spice and crushed rocks are all nicely delineated, though. The 2020 is initially promising, but it’s hard to get past the angular, searing contours. This tastes like wine from another producer, not like Cogno.