2017 Saumur Champigny

The 2017 Le Clos is a blend of 15 sites across five hectares. It is a richly fragrant, brooding style, with lots of complex layers. Light on its feet, its compact core is rich with texture, and its flavors linger long. There's a meaty edge, olives, dried herbs and a rather drying conclusion, which is a bit suspect and leaves a question mark for its future longevity.

This is worth every penny of its price tag. It has a hushed intensity. It’s mellow, fitting into itself like an old library: dust and shelves, polished coppery red wood and the smell of a warm fireplace. Parchment and pages and ink and leather-bound books. It's sweet and smoky, concentration and power pulsing through the fruit in waves. Damsons, cloves and tobacco-smoke tendrils, cigars. The tannins fan fine and fragrant, across and through, a plethora but in exquisite restraint. This is a real beauty. One of the best wines of the tasting. (TC)