2014 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Auslese Goldkapsel
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Tasting notes
“Normally, this should have been a year of TBA, BA and Auslese without end,” related Dönnhoff senior, “if only the weather had turned at the beginning of October and brought strictly cool, dry air.” In the event, just this one small bit of Auslese was possible by dint of rigorous selection. “I didn’t want Auslese to completely elude my grasp,” Dönnhoff continued, noting that “this one was picked out from the Spätlese material on a table by my top harvest brigade. We’ve had lovelier Auslesen, but when it’s constantly humid, you get negative infection and can’t expect more than this.” A faintly fungal note accents apple jelly, glazed pineapple, candied grapefruit rind and caramel on the nose, leading to a colorfully complex but rather opaque as well as decidedly confectionery palate impression. The finish is forcefully sustained but lacks the primary juiciness and salinity that might have leavened the wine’s sheer thickness and overcome slightly rough and unruly manifestations of botrytis. “The Brücke Auslese would probably have been better than this if only those grapes hadn’t gone kaput on us,” quipped Dönnhoff.
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Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The 2014 Riesling Auslese Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle GK has been selected from all over the Hermannshöhle vineyard and offers a very fine, subtle botrytis bouquet intermixed with pure and flinty stone aromas. This gold-capsuled Auslese is sweet and fruity, highly elegant and with great finesse; it has a piquant acidity and ripe pineapples aromas, but also reduced botrytis flavors. This is a very delicate and elegant Riesling with a lovely, clear and lean, mineral character. Great finesse and delicacy here.
The Dönnhoffs won’t thank me for revealing that an important wine guide stole one of their stars last year. The Hermannshöhle Auslese makes you wonder why. Once again the fragrance is almost restrained, but teases with delicious aromas of melon, citrus fruit and a gentle dusty note. Juicy and with invigorating acidity, it also shows a perfectly measured dose of sweetness, enough to delight without piling up the sugar content. A delicate nuance of stony minerality underlines the long finish. A fine and elegant wine for the discerning Auslese drinker. (MS)