2020 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova

Medium-deep in color, the 2020 Tenuta Nuova has aromas of potpourri, cherry liqueur, and game. Spherical on the palate, it's holding the alcohol quite well, although with just a touch of warmth on the finish. The acid is balancing but not at the forefront, with dark fruits and black tea on the focused and long finish.

The Casanova di Neri 2020 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova stands apart in the context of this portfolio. I get a distinctly creamy note that cedes to almond paste, sweet cherry and chalky stone. The wine is open-knit and generous with velvety tannins and no bitterness on the finish. It has the bulk and the fresh fruit concentration for long cellar aging. It is texturally rich, ending with hints of cedar spice and something that reminds me of freshly broken tree branches. Yields were down by about 15% in this vintage. The wine matures in 500-liter barrels for 30 months, and 63,000 bottles were created.

Crowning this estate’s three Brunello releases in 2020, Tenuta Nuova encapsulates its dry, balmy, forested surroundings near Sant’Angelo in Colle with aplomb. It was picked on the mornings of September 15 to 17 to avoid the afternoon heat. The nose offers pronounced rosemary, thyme and tobacco, lightly sprinkled with cocoa. Plump red plum and ripe persimmon are layered between sweet, dusty tannins. Zesty, citrussy acidity gives an invigorating lift. There are no rough edges here – it's irresistible now but with the stuffing and substance for another 12-15 years.