2018 Etna Rosso Riserva Serra della Contessa
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Tasting notes
This is one of the flagship wines from Etna. The Benanti 2018 Etna Rosso Riserva Alberello Centenario Serra della Contessa Particella No. 587 is quickly edging toward tertiary definition with dried currant and crushed rose. This vineyard site, with century-old vines, is planted with approximately 85% to 90% Nerello Mascalese and the rest is Nerello Cappuccio. Together, these grapes give the wine a spicy side with crushed peppercorn. Particella No. 587 is located on the south-southeast side of the volcano at 500 meters in elevation. I have walked between these knotted and twisted vines, and this is one of the most beautiful vineyards in Sicily. Production of this wine is limited to 2,964 bottles.
Critic scores
Average Score
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Roughly 85% Nerello Mascalese, 15% Nerello Cappuccio co-planted in a vineyard located in Contrada Monte Serra, on the south-east slope of Mount Etna, at 500 m (1,640 ft). This bottling is from a small, pre-phylloxera, ungrafted portion of the vineyard with vines over 100 years old. Sweeter on the nose than the 2019; peonies, a brush of cigar. Back to that very Nerello Mascalese apricot, blood-orange-stained acidity. Strata of flowers and striated stones, tannins that feel like satin and sand. Long acidity, long tannins, long reach, broad swirl, crushed plums and taffeta. This is very tactile, seems to ruche up in the mouth and give you more surface area of flavour. I love this one. It’s asking for your curiosity, for you to reach in and question and be there. Violets and punctuation. This has such a sweet heart. Kiss of red peach. Red cherry. (TC)
Dark and dusty, the 2018 Etna Rosso Riserva Serra della Contessa Particella No. 587 wafts up with unexpected richness as plum sauce and cinnamon spice combine with rubbed sage and hints of white smoke. This sweeps across the palate, soft, elegant and medium in body. A saturation of red and blue fruits drenches the palate in primary concentration while edgy tannins tug at the cheeks. The 2018 finishes staining and tense with notes of licorice that linger on, tapering away quicker than expected. It’s quite backward today and shows the lighthearted feel of the vintage, yet I can’t help but think that as its tannins resolve, an understated beauty will reveal itself.
About the producer
Benanti is one of the founding fathers of modern-day wine in Sicily, with Giuseppe Benanti an early champion of wines made from the slopes of Mount Etna. Today the property is in the hands of Giuseppe’s children and remains one of the region’s leading names.