2014 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel
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Tasting notes
It’s impossible to overlook the color of this auction bottling -- deep yet decidedly greenish-gold -- and not to conclude, after having tasted it, that the way it looks tells you a lot about its personality. Prickly pungency suggestive of white currant and gooseberry preserves; a penetrating whiff of pear distillate; zesty candied lime and grapefruit; and an aura of green herbal elixir all place this botrytis selection very much in line with the high-toned, blazingly bright personality of the corresponding Spätlesen. Viscous and oily yet anything but soothing, this mouth-shaking elixir delivers a startlingly carnal as well as mineral savor akin to salted veal stock and shrimp shell reduction. That remarkable savor leaves me salivating uncontrollably and, when allied with the honey, musk, sourdough yeastiness and spice contributed by noble botrytis, makes for an unforgettable finish. Amazingly, I even find myself perceiving a stony, slate-typical foundation to this towering edifice.
Critic scores
David Schildknecht, Vinous
About the producer
Egon Müller is the most famous name in Riesling. The estate produces the world’s most expensive sweet white wines from the Grand Cru Scharzhofberg vineyard in Mosel, Germany.