2023 Bourgogne Aligote Les Champs d’Argent

The 2023 Bourgogne Aligoté Les Champs d'Argent is an intriguing wine. Attractive scents of lemon verbena, lemon curd and hints of chamomile unfold on the nose that, as I mentioned to Lachaux directly, echoes a white Rhône. The palate has not so much a "creamy" texture as plenty of substance—perhaps more waxy, becoming oilier with aeration. There is fine depth and impressive density, though not length or the reductiveness that seems to electrify Lalou Bize-Leroy's feted Aligoté. Examining this articulation of the resurgent variety, I unquestionably enjoy it. Yet I cannot deny finding a shortfall in tension towards the finish and it does lack typicité. Blind, I am unsure whether I would nail its origin. Whether you like it or not depends on how much you value that and, personally, I consider it vital.