2023 Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers
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Allen Meadows, Burghound
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
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Pierre Millemann has made four barrels of his 2023 Cazetiers, all from Damy and using Tronçais wood, but with different toasting levels for each of them. One third whole bunch. A glowing dark purple. The bouquet is not yet particularly open but with a classic savoury nose, which I find typical of Gevrey. As with the Corton, there is a burst of energy which emerges on the palate. The tannins are at this stage relatively firm but with a wealth of dark, ripe yet still in place fruit alongside. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Jul 2024.
A plethora of floral elements adds breadth to the spicy and ripe aromas of plum, wild dark cherry and earth. There is good freshness and verve to the acceptably dense, detailed and mineral-driven flavors that culminate in a decidedly compact and powerful finish. I very much like the fine-grained tannins as this is at once robust yet refined. Worth considering.
About the producer
Since 2017, Pierre Millemann – a leading wine consultant – along with his wife, and now daughter Charlotte, has been working as a micro-négoce, producing tiny volumes of Premier and Grand Cru Burgundy, both white and red. The wines have rapidly become some of the region’s most sought-after.