2023 Bourgogne Rouge

Aromas of sweet berries and cherries introduce the 2023 Bourgogne Rouge, a medium-bodied, pure and supple wine that's bright and succulent. As ever, this is a clean, well-made, dependable Bourgogne that will drink well on release. This is another strong set of wines from Charles Van Canneyt—but that won't surprise readers familiar with this estate's consistent excellence. Van Canneyt has had the reins here for over a decade now, and his approach has crystalized: the predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels now predominantly sourced from Cavin, with Cadus in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months in the domaine's cold cellar, with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, which is bottled before harvest. These uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend.

The 2023 Bourgogne Rouge comes from 11 parcels in Chambolle-Musigny. This has a fragrant bouquet with blackberry and raspberry fruit tones, fine delineation and poise. The palate is medium-bodied, a little diffuse on the entry, with light tannins and a brisk, breezy finish. Fine.

Ripe, fresh and airy aromas include those of both red and dark fruit trimmed in soft earth. The succulent and relatively concentrated middle weight flavors conclude in a robust and slightly warm finale. I would observe that this is a departure in style for the Hudelot Bourgogne, which is typically light and refreshing whereas here it is more rustic and without the same refinement. Drink 2026+