2023 Vosne Romanee

The 2023 Vosne-Romanée Village exhibits aromas of dark berries, spices and a subtle hint of gentian, followed by a medium-bodied palate with a sweet core of fruit and a finish that's a touch firmer than that of its Chambolle counterpart. This is another strong set of wines from Charles Van Canneyt—but that won't surprise readers familiar with this estate's consistent excellence. Van Canneyt has had the reins here for over a decade now, and his approach has crystalized: the predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels now predominantly sourced from Cavin, with Cadus in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months in the domaine's cold cellar, with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, which is bottled before harvest. These uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend.

(this has some young vines 1ers added to a blend of 85% Basses Maizières and 15% Les Vigneux). An exuberantly spicy nose features notes of poached plum, black cherry, exotic tea and a whiff of oak. The vibrant, well-detailed and utterly delicious medium-bodied flavors also conclude in a moderately robust and lingering but not rustic finale. Even so, this solid effort is definitely fashioned in a bigger and more powerful style than is typical for Hudelot.

The 2023 Vosne-Romanée Village exhibits aromas of dark berries, spices and a subtle hint of gentian, followed by a medium-bodied palate with a sweet core of fruit and a finish that's a touch firmer than that of its Chambolle counterpart.