2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard

Hobbs was one of the first to recognize the brilliance of Oakville’s Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard, and he has produced several wines that were either perfect, or pushing perfection. This 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard reveals that haunting, almost indescribable bouquet of red and black fruits, spring flowers, and subtle hint of lead pencil shavings that aromatically blows away the taster. If one could have a 100-point bouquet, this is it. Moreover, the flavors don’t let the taster down. Nearly as powerful and rich as the 2002, this full-bodied 2004 is a glorious, classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon that has been flawlessly vinified. The enormity of the mid-palate, texture and skyscraper-like mouthfeel with no heaviness result in a prodigious effort that is one of the top four or five wines of the vintage. This spectacular wine can be drunk now or cellared for another two decades. One of the most successful, accomplished and irrepressible personalities of Northern California is globe-trotting wine consultant Paul Hobbs. His home base is in the Russian River sector of California, but his talents are such that he can go into Napa and turn out spectacular Cabernet Sauvignons from a multitude of sources. Tel. (707) 824-9879

Deep red. Powerful dark berry aromas are complicated by cured tobacco, licorice, cedar and incense. Very sweet but poised, with expressive red and dark berry flavors supported by gentle acidity and framed by silky tannins. Gains weight with air, finishing lush and chewy, with outstanding length. As I went back to this it seemed to grow fresher.

Good medium ruby. Sappy aromas of blackberry, black cherry and mocha. Fat, silky and full; here the wine's firm edge of acidity is nicely buffered by dense fruit. Conveys an impression of sweetness without heaviness. Finishes with lush, fine-grained, slowly mounting tannins and excellent persistence.