2023 Gevrey-Chambertin

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village offers up aromas of smoky berries, petals and loamy soil, followed by a medium-bodied, supple and succulent palate that's bright and lively, concluding with a saline finish. This is another lovely set of wines from Pierre Duroché, emphasizing supple, sensual structures and expressive aromas. After the hailstorms of 2022, 2023 was less eventful, with warm weather punctuated by showers that alleviated any hydric stress. Harvest began on September 5, as usual with the Griotte-Chambertin. As readers may remember, Duroché has been experimenting with "tressage"—rolling vines' canopies instead of trimming them—in some parcels. In the cellar, new oak continues to make a minimal contribution, but the historic emphasis on Tonnellerie Cadus has diminished to avoid any one cooper defining the domaine style. Vinifications continue to be rather delicate, with comparatively short macerations and little in the way of pigéage. Fully renovated winery facilities, complete with a battery of made-to-measure stainless steel tanks, facilitate precision vinification, something that was a particular advantage in 2023.

10 plots representing three of their 8.5ha. Deep purple with a lighter rim. A darker, denser fruit, less explosive than the Bourgogne. A few blackcurrants and bilberries, not quite squeezed till the pips squeak but you can see how this will become tighter later on. Two-thirds made in barrel, one third in eggs.