2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques wafts from the glass with aromas of orange zest, rose petals, spices and sweet dark berries. Medium to full-bodied, ample and sensual, it's bright and melting, with soft tannins and a long, sapid finish. This is another lovely set of wines from Pierre Duroché, emphasizing supple, sensual structures and expressive aromas. After the hailstorms of 2022, 2023 was less eventful, with warm weather punctuated by showers that alleviated any hydric stress. Harvest began on September 5, as usual with the Griotte-Chambertin. As readers may remember, Duroché has been experimenting with "tressage"—rolling vines' canopies instead of trimming them—in some parcels. In the cellar, new oak continues to make a minimal contribution, but the historic emphasis on Tonnellerie Cadus has diminished to avoid any one cooper defining the domaine style. Vinifications continue to be rather delicate, with comparatively short macerations and little in the way of pigéage. Fully renovated winery facilities, complete with a battery of made-to-measure stainless steel tanks, facilitate precision vinification, something that was a particular advantage in 2023.

Lavaut-St-Jacques was not the last to be picked for once, to avoid flétri (wrinkled skins) which was threatening, and it certainly comes across as quite ripe. Mid purple. The bouquet takes a little searching out, then sensual red and black fruit across the palate. Not ultra concentrated but quite fine.