2016 Brauneberger Juffer Trocken GG

Predominantly from 10- to 25-year-old vines in the Juffer and Juffer-Sonnenuhr, the intensely colored 2016 Brauneberger Riesling Trocken opens with a stunning "sponty" flavor from the lees aging until March. Intense and ripe, it has lovely slatey aromas and very nice fruit intensity. Full-bodied, lush and very elegant, this is a well-balanced, piquant and expressive village Riesling with a long, intense, charmingly juicy and aromatic finish. This is an excellent dry Riesling from two of the top vineyards of the Mosel. 12% alcohol. Tasted in March 2018 from AP 17 17.

Tasted only a week after its late July 2017 bottling, this leads with scents of ripe white peach, apple, grapefruit and a hint of mango. These deploy lusciously on a silken, glycerol-rich palate palpably high in extract yet uncannily buoyant even at 12.5% alcohol. Almond and peach kernel and a cooling infusion of green herbs serve as fine foils to the wine’s prominent, ripe fruitiness, and the superbly sustained, stone-lined finish doesn’t forget its duty to refresh.

Broad and embracing on the nose. Lots of ripe fruit here – so much so that you hardly notice the acidity. Masses to chew on. Light years from the old trocken Rieslings of yore. Excellent persistence. (JR)