2023 Rheinhessen Alte Reben La Borne Auction

AP number 20 24. Certified organic. Deep but not obviously fruity. Spiced and ‘golden’ aroma of an older wine, even though it is not. Mouth-watering. A little severe but still just in balance. Immense drive and length with a really salty finish. (JH)

Upper piece of Morstein, only offered at auction. Small plot of old vines, 40+ years old. The complexity and power of the aromas will knock you over. A roundhouse kick of everything that makes wine what it is: acid, texture, concentration and aroma. Herbal tides lap over powerful waves of apple and mandarin. Long juicy citrus and so easy to go down. Lingering finish measured in minutes not seconds. Pure elegance and finesse. (PS)

The 2023 Riesling La Borne Alte Reben is from a parcel within the upper part of the Morstein, reaching 240 meters, named La Borne after a boundary stone. Subtle chervil and soothing, lemony coolness support a distant hint of tangerine on the nose. The concentrated palate surprises with its streamlined, bright freshness and smooth, fluid, rich texture. Pervasive lemon peel lends flavor and tingling, svelte form, as well as absolute arrow-like direction and poise. This is citrus purity and grace captured in a bottle—elegant, with power and exquisite length. Available at auction: 240 bottles. (Bone-dry)