2022 Savennieres Les Vieux Clos

The 2022 Savennières Les Vieux Clos is made from grapes that were picked late (including a 10% portion of botrytized fruit) but made in a dry style, which means high sugar and, therefore, elevated alcohol. The result is an oxidative, nutty, bready style with bruised apple flavors and farmyard notes. There's plenty of concentration, firm structure, phenolic grip and drive, but the good fruit is masked by rusticity and weird flavors. I cannot reasonably recommend this. I couldn't finish a glass, let alone a bottle. In 2022, it’s hard to ignore the issues with the wines of the Famille Joly. In 2021, the wines seemed cleaner; the natural freshness of the vintage provided greater clarity, and the nature of the fruit seemed purer. This was encouraging, as the Jolys farm some of the finest vineyards in Savennières. However, in 2022 farmyard and cider notes, malted yeast characters, acetaldehyde (over-ripe bruised apples and nuts) and even a touch of fizz dominate the flavors of the wines. The high level of alcohol, a common feature of the wines here, is particularly noticeable in 2022. This combination adds up to make a vintage that provides very little pleasure and hides the terroir. For those reasons, I cannot recommend the 2022s. I’ll also be looking to taste the 2021s again.