2005 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese (1 Star)
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Tasting notes
Molitor’s “three star”auction lot 2005 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*** (he participates in the so-called “Bernkasteler Ring” and its auction, not the VDP) both smells and tastes of nougat, apple jelly, and butter cream, with a rather exaggerated sweetness as though one concentrated and made ice cream or candy out of a normal Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese. Certainly this is strikingly creamy in texture, leesy, and palpably dense, but anyone who seeking a juicy, fresh fruit character will be disappointed. Although I find it even more difficult to rate this wine than its predecessors, I think it is important to record my impressions to a degree that testifies to the wine’s singular character. It seems concentrated enough to age well but I have no idea what it might become in the process. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling trocken (unknown; 85), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett trocken (unavailable; 86+?), 2005 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Spatlese feinherb (unknown; 84-86), 2005 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Auslese*** feinherb (unknown; 85-87). Importer: Schmitt Sohne, Millersville, MD; tel. (410) 729-4083
Critic scores
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
About the producer
Markus Molitor is now among the largest privately owned wine estates in the Mosel and also one of the best. With a focus on single-vineyard expressions, the estate produces between 80 and 90 different wines each vintage.