2009 Moulin a Vent Les Trois Roches

The Vissoux 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Les Trois Roches – named for the Rochegres, La Rochelle, and Roche Noire sites south of Chenas – smells of fresh dark cherry and purple plum along with charred wood (though not necessarily from barrel). Rather restrained and laid-back on the palate, it nonetheless clings with authority, offering smoky, crushed stone, and saline mineral elements in a dynamic interchange with its concentrated fruit. This is likely to blossom beautifully over the next couple of years and be worth following for 5-7. Pierre Chermette – for more about whom, consult my report in issue 184 – picked his crus from September 7-15 and his vines in the South of Beaujolais the week following, managing to keep alcohols below 13.5%. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800