2008 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru les Charmes

The Bertheaus’ sole wine of its vintage not bottled by February – on account of certain barrels having been late to complete malo – their 2008 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes displays fascinating and alluring aromas of kirsch, pistachio oil, marzipan, iris, and maraschino. Bright cherry fruit and persistently floral and distillate-like high tones inform a refreshing palate, finishing with saline savor and fruit pit piquancy. This is lightweight, but quite refined, complex, and at least incipiently – allowing for my having tasted it while on its finings and texturally off-kilter – elegant. I would expect plenty of distinctive satisfaction over the next 6-8 years at least. Francois Bertheau’s tendency toward rendering frisky, sharply-etched and sharp-edged Pinot was practically bound to be accentuated by 2008 vintage character, and the quality of results varied considerably by appellation. Asked which of 2007 and 2008 were more challenging, Bertheau answered, in English, “fifty-fifty,” but this is one address where I found the softer, riper, if relatively diffuse personality of the former vintage more satisfying. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524