2006 Puligny Montrachet

In contrast with Boillot's single-vineyard village Meursault, his 2006 Puligny-Montrachet originates in nine diverse locations. Lime, grapefruit, vanilla, and licorice in the nose leads to a juicy, generously juicy yet quite dense palate, tinged with candied citrus rind and licorice, and finishes with chalky minerality and just a hint of drying, overt woodiness. The excellent 2005 and 2004 are both more savory and mineral, with the older of these having the edge in brightness, complexity, and length. Given that Jean-Marc Boillot declares his love for classic dry Alsace Riesling, it is perhaps not surprising that he chose to harvest in 2006 immediately after the ban de vendange, did so in a great hurry, and then took every measure he thought efficacious - from rapid pressing to early bottling - to preserve refreshment and clarity in his finish wines. All of Boillot's premier crus (vinified in around one third new barrels) - whether from his own or purchased grapes - represent old selection massale vines, clearly one source of this collection's success. Boillot considers his 2006s -longer, finer, and more precise- as well as more sleek and dynamic than his 2005s, observations at odds with those of many growers, but ones that my tasting bore out. Importers: A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70 and Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802