1985 Clos Vougeot

Bright, moderately saturated amber-red. Aromas of redcurrant, balsamic cedar and brown spices are slightly blemished by imperfect oak. Rich, round and velvety in the mouth, conveying lovely volume and surprising sweetness--and fresher than the nose suggests. Has just enough acidity to give shape to its plum, redcurrant, spice and earth flavors. Finishes with surprising length and fully absorbed, slightly dusty tannins. Labet told me that he recalls tasting this wine from barrel, noting that "no one wanted to spit." But he added that "the wine would be better--more precise--if vinified today."