2021 Darmagi Cabernet Sauvignon Langhe

This wine rocked my world. The Gaja 2021 Langhe Darmagi is Cabernet Sauvignon from 3.5 hectares of vines planted in 1978. The first vintage made was 1982. Despite the ongoing battle with Esca disease, this is definitely one of the best, if not THE best, vintage made. "It's a Cabernet that speaks in the Piedmontese dialect," says Rossana Gaja. Her family has long experience with this grape both in Piedmont and in Bolgheri, Tuscany, where it is featured at the family's Ca' Marcanda estate. I love the luscious, compact richness of the wine that feels virtually seamless to the senses. There is generous black fruit with smoke, ash and spice over an elegant full-bodied texture and chalky tannins.

A deep purple saturated color, the 2021 Darmagi is ripe and lifted with notes of graphite and blackberries. Schedule to be bottled in July, it offers great balance of sweetness on the palate, and I like the nerve this wine carries, with a note of alpine herbs that lifts it. Revealing sweet, ripe tannins, notes of espresso, and a long finish, it will drink well 2026-2056. The Gaja estate was founded in 1859, although it was Angelo Gaja, the fourth-generation winemaker of this Barbaresco estate, who made the innovations that would help shape the region as it is today. The entire family shares responsibilities across their estates. Great attention is paid to their practice of sustainable and regenerative farming. The latest major development for the estate in Piedmont is a brand new winery exclusively dedicated to their still white wine production in Alta Langa, 16 kilometers away from the original estate. It was designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Bo, who the family have worked with since 1982. The vineyards of Gaia & Rey and Brassica will remain the same, but fermentation and production have moved to this location, which was completed in time for the 2023 harvest. There is greater biodiversity in Alta Langa compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, with 60% of the land being undeveloped land and hazelnut farms, and only 40% vineyards, compared to Barbaresco, which has 80% of the land under vine. For this reason, as well as the higher elevations, this area is seeing an influx of attention across the region. In 2015, the family purchased 30 hectares of land that had been planted to hazelnut trees, at an average elevation of 650 meters, which they have converted to vineyard and indigenous plants of the area. Cascina Langa, the historical name for the property, has soils that are rich in sand and tuff, which they believe will be well-suited for adding structure for the white varietals of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. They also planted several other experimental vines to learn what will work well in the region.