2019 Colome Altura Maxima Malbec

Aged already in bottle for several years, the 2019 Malbec Altura Maxima is hitting its peak, perfumed in dark fruit and leather, with a gravelly texture. Dried fruit and dried herb accent a full-bodied, concentrated, and dense palate of high acidity and moderate length. The oldest operating winery in Argentina was founded in 1831 in Salta’s Calchaqui Valley by Doña Ascensión Isasmendi, who inherited the estate in the mid-1800s and planted Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon vines brought over from France. Remotely situated, the historic pre-phylloxera vineyards were later cared for by visionary owners Donald and Ursula Hess, who purchased the property in 2001. It is now run by the second-generation, Larissa and Christoph Ehrbar. Grapes are grown in four organic/biodynamic vineyards at four different altitudes ranging from 5,740- to 10,200- feet elevation; in 2007 they planted the highest-altitude vinifera vineyard in the world, Altura Máxima at 10,200-feet. Head winemaker is Thibaut Delmotte.

The 2019 Malbec Altura Maxima originates from a vineyard planted at 3,111 meters in the Payogasta area of the Calchaquí Valley. This intense red wine, with its purple hue, reveals notes of blackberry, balsamic and bay leaf. Dry and compact, it draws overpowering energy from its acidity and rich balance, culminating in a distinctive and flavorful finish. This is a concentrated red crafted from vines at extremely high altitude.

Lots of depth here, with blackberries, asphalt, wet-stone minerality and savory, roasted spice. A concentrated, brooding red with lots of ripeness, but still juicy. Wrapped by powdery and dusty tannins. If it weren’t for the hint of warmth at the end, this would have rated higher. Has potential, though. Better after 2024.