2014 Riesling Trocken

Lemon and tangerine team up for a pungently zesty nose and attractively juicy palate. Compact and palpably extract-rich, this bottling from Hipping and young vines in Rot[h]enberg brings considerable tartness and pip bitterness into a stimulating and refreshing finish. It won’t make one forget the memorably sensational value offered by many past “basic” generic Gunderloch Rieslings, but any deficit might well be chalked up to both the vintage and the existence now of a second generic bottling (reviewed below).