1955 Chambertin

Tasted at the 60th anniversary tasting at Domaine d’Auvenay. The 1955 Chambertin Grand Cru has a deeper color than the Clos-de-Bèze '55. The bouquet is very intense and a little richer: maraschino, bay leaf, woodbine and antique bureau aromas developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, fine acidity, more masculine than the Clos-de-Bèze, but you could argue without quite the same charm and personality. That is not to begrudge a quite startling 60-year-old Chambertin, it's just that it winds down the gears toward the finish, whereas the Clos-de-Bèze cruises along in nonchalant style.