2021 Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc
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Tasting notes
The 2021 Te Koko is rather shy on the nose at first, with a subtlety more akin to Chardonnay than Sauvignon Blanc. Its curvy, creamy, medium-bodied texture also recalls Chardonnay. The variety and region impart electric natural acidity that tightens the palate and adds vigour. Only on the mid-palate and finish do Sauvignon Blanc flavours come through, with elderflower, blackcurrant, nectarine and subtle nutty notes. A well-managed balance between fruit and oak provides impressive overall harmony, and the finish is of medium length. This is the first vintage in which any portion of the Te Koko was aged in concrete, and the second in which large-format cuves (600 liters) were used.
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Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
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The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko is a firm, focused, barrel-fermented style, which is clear from the get-go with its nutty nose that follows through onto the palate. It's a youthful wine with all the flavors up front, and they're all still in a battle for supremacy, from citrus and nectarine to capsicum and almond croissants. The small crops of the season and the winemaking provided a rich texture and grip, making for a structured, powerful wine. There's no shortage of acidity either, coursing through with the pace of a river rapid. This still needs time for its componentry to knit, but there's plenty of quality markers here to suggest it will find its moment.
Te Koko is arguably the wine that launched the concept of premium Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand in the 1980s—no mean feat. On the nose, this 2021 Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc leads with pink grapefruit, nashi pear, white pepper, layers of crushed shells and brine, with hints of vanilla pod and star anise. In the mouth, all of the above with additional cut fennel, suggestions of marzipan, graphite and white pepper. There is a gentle lees texture and brilliant length of flavor. Excellent wine. The only reason you could possibly not like this wine is if you don't like Sauvignon Blanc, and even then, I'd insist that you try it. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.