2005 Vougeot Les Petits Vougeots

Fourrier’s 2005 Vougeot Les Petits Vougeots – from a site south of Les Amoureuses and north of the Clos Vougeot, Vigne Blanche and les Cras – displays deep berry and pit fruit character, distinctly chalky mineral notes, and fine-grained tannins. Without any superficial sweetness, it manages to convey a sense of superb ripeness but also juicy, fresh fruit. Bitter-sweet suggestions of walnut oil, plum pit, salt and wet stone tinge the finishing black fruits that reflect tiny-berried concentration. Here is a likely very affordable 2005 with fascinating flavors and at least six or eight years of interesting evolution ahead of it. The articulate and opinionated Jean-Marie Fourrier staunchly believes in the inclusion of uncrushed fruit (to among other things prolong fermentation and, he claims, diminish the efficiency of alcoholic conversion); leaving the young wines on their lees (with high CO2 retention) eighteen months before bottling; employing a mere 20% of new barrels for all wines; and applying only minimal doses of sulfur. That the property from which he sources is all owned outright, and is largely in vines of over fifty years age planted by his father or grandfather before the days of clones certainly helps explain the consistently excellent quality at this address. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Brilliant ruby-red. Pungent aromas of raspberry, spices and stone. Broad and dry on the palate, with spicy red berry, stone and mineral flavors conveying an impression of sappiness. Finishes with broad, dusty, building tannins.