2021 La Coma d’en Romeu

The 2021 La Coma d’en Romeu is highly aromatic, with notes of thyme, rosemary and lavender, wild herbs and flowers, the smell of the vineyard and a common note through the vintages (and also present in the wine I tasted from the young vineyards, an experimental 2022 and the 2023 still aging that will be the first release). It also has a peachy and floral character with something more serious, a little earthy, hints of rusty nail, complex, also perfumed and elegant, with a balanced palate and beautiful texture Carles Ortiz and Ester Nin produce 30,000 bottles, 100% of them with grapes from their own vineyards. All of their vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic, but they still don't have the certification for the wines. 2021 was an atypical year, with a big snowstorm in January, a cooler year but not as much as 2013, 2010 or 2018, and they said it was a more Mediterranean version of 2020. They harvested late, the alcohol was lower (they had some difficulties to achieve the minimum alcohol required by the appellation in some wines), and the wines are fresher but the ripeness was good (looking at the polyphenols and so on). There will be a new Garnacha from young vines in La Coma d'en Romeu. They have been planting small plots (and replacing dead vines) in their old vineyards, a trend that I see in many producers as they have to get ready for the future; if you want old vines in 50 years from now, you have to plant them now! They are also extremely worried about the lack of water and have dug a well in their Planetes vineyard that gives them very little water, but at least it's something. Unfortunately, Cariñena Blanca, the white mutation of Cariñena, is still not approved by the Priorat appellation, mainly because it's a grape that delivers wines with moderate alcohol—a blessing in the warm climate, a grape resistant to drought and pat for the climate change—usually below what the appellation requires (13% for whites). They had applied for an exception to this rule for the wines produced with Cariñena Blanca to be allowed at 12.5% alcohol, but it was rejected. So, after 11 vintages, their white is still an experimental wine.

The 2021 La Coma D'En Romeu is a testament to the precision and skill of Nin Ortiz. Fermented with whole clusters, this 100% Garnatxa boasts highly expressive aromas of lavender, violets and herbs layered over a cherry-strawberry core. On the palate, it’s dry and lean, with a light, talc-like mouthfeel that conveys an ethereal and pure personality. Despite its delicate appearance, this wine possesses a subtle strength that gives it remarkable staying power. It’s a truly impressive wine.