2008 Il Musmeci Etna Rosso

The 2008 Etna Rosso Il Musmeci is 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio from vineyards planted in 1920. Layers of dark fruit emerge from this powerful old-vine red, accentuated by hints of sweet tobacco and cedar. This is a decidedly intense style for the Etna. It will be interesting to see the direction Musmeci takes from here.

Contrada Rovittello. Fermented in stainless steel and aged for 15 months in large oak and tonneaux (Sylvain), of whch a third is new. After bottling, the wine is aged for 12 months before release onto the market. Pale ruby with the beginning of orange. More brooding and darker than the previous wines. Full-bodied attack with dark fruits and touch of oak, but finishes with serious tannin structure and lingering fruit. Seems more extracted, perhaps a bit weightier. (WS)

The 2008 Etna Rosso Il Musmeci is 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio from vineyards planted in 1920. Layers of dark fruit emerge from this powerful old-vine red, accentuated by hints of sweet tobacco and cedar. This is a decidedly intense style for the Etna. It will be interesting to see the direction Musmeci takes from here. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. I have been following Tenuta di Fessina for several years. These are the first wines that begin to capture the promise shown by the early wines. The estate is owned by Federico Curtaz, who first achieved recognition as Angelo Gaja's long-time agronomist. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620