2017 Barolo Vigna Elena Riserva

The 2017 Barolo Ravera Vigna Elena is made entirely from the Rosé clone and is a very special wine, in that it moves from incense to red berries, rose petal, and licorice. It has a gripping structure, though, with sweet ripe tannins and evolving orchard fruit. Everyone will get something from this wine. It is a beautiful wine in this stage, and although 2017 was a warm vintage, it is elegant and graceful. Drink 2024-2044. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous estate in 1991, after working for 30 years in partnership with Marcarini with the labels of Cogno-Marcarini. Originally from Novello, he had an opportunity to purchase the winery farmhouse, Cascina Nuova, located in the commune of Novello, in the heart of the Ravera Cru (MGA). That same year, he put Ravera on the map by producing the first-ever bottling of Barolo labeled as Ravera. They currently operate and own 16 hectares of vines, 11 of which are within the Cru of Ravera, and the remaining 5 hectares are parcels around the Novello Comune. Today the estate is run by Elvio’s son-in-law, Valter Fissore, and his daughter Nadia, who took over in 1996. In the vineyards, they continue to push forward, working to improve vineyard health and implement organic farming practices while adapting to the region's changing climate conditions. The total annual production is approximately 120,000 bottles. Their key holdings include the pre-phylloxera Barbera sourced from Berri on the western edge of La Morra, from 130-year-old vines. They survive because of the sandier soils and the cooler microclimate, which sees more wind coming off the river to the west. Less than 2000 bottles are produced each year. The Barolo from Bricco Pernice is a warmer microclimate within Ravera, as it is sheltered from the winds coming off the mountains, with soils that are a higher proportion of limestone compared to the other plots within Ravera. Bricco Pernice is entirely composed of the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Also within Ravera, Elvio planted Vigna Elena in 1991, the same year Valter and Nadia’s daughter Elena was born. It is a triangle-shaped parcel, uniquely planted exclusively to the Rose clone of Nebbiolo, whereas the rest of their Nebbiolo vines are composed of Michet and Lampia clones. In 2005, they had the opportunity to work with Bordini in Neive to begin producing their Barbaresco. Each of the following wines was tasted at their tasting room with Valter Fissore in March of 2023. Across the range, the wines showed wonderful purity, with each wine having a unique and singular stamp, making them some of the most enjoyable and expressive wines from the area, and I highly recommend seeking them out.

The 2017 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena is a very pretty, aromatic wine. Dried cherry, tobacco, cedar, spice and mint give the Vigna Elena its signature aromatics. Medium in body and quite gracious, the 2017 is a very pretty Barolo. I imagine it will drink well with minimal cellaring.

‘Rosè [aka Nebbiolo Rosé, long thought to be a clone, now recognised as a separate variety] is always the last to ripen and needs a lot of heat.’ Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Very shy, perfumed nose with iodine notes and a hint of old leather. Elegant but with quite a bit of power underneath. Succulent and generous on the palate with lush acidity and a deep layer of firm tannins. Very slow and generous but doesn’t reveal everything right now. Not ready by far. (WS)