2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese
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Tasting notes
This leads with a pungent, dusty combination of spent yeasts, crushed stone, bruised apple skin and lime peel. From the nose, I would never have guessed I had an Auslese in my glass. The feel is surprisingly firm, and flavors of dried apple dominate, taking on attractive but lightly sizzling cinnamon and clove accents on a finish that led me to suspect the presence of botrytis, even though Schug claimed that any botrytis this vintage went solely into BA or TBA. That finish is quite tongue-tingling, a reprise of lime peel and crushed stone adding to an overall sense of animation, though without much sheer juiciness. This will be interesting to follow, and I consider my suggested drinking window especially speculative.
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
So much dried-peach and apricot character here, but then a wealth of florals, such as dried orchid and jasmine. Hints of peppermint tea, croissant and orange spread. The sweetness is powerful and long-lasting, but the acidity is equally, if not more profound and engulfing. So much tension and minerality here, despite the ripeness. The finish goes on and on. Drink now or hold.